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The humid Jamaican air smelled sweet from ripe mango and passionfruit trees. Smoke swirled around from the open fire, where a whole green knobby breadfruit sat roasting next to a pot simmering with rundown – a savoury stew made from coconut milk, tomatoes, spices and mackerel. A nearby table displayed a tray of roasted breadfruit wedges and bright red snapper, alongside cakes and rolls made with flour from the breadfruit tree. The food was prepared for an international group of botanists, visiting north-eastern Jamaica's Portland Parish to learn about the historical, cultural and economic importance of the breadfruit tree. Originally brought to Jamaica from the Pacific Islands by the HMS Bounty in 1794, breadfruit was an inexpensive, nutritious food for enslaved Africans labouring on British-owned sugar plantations. The trees grow quickly and fruit within a year of planting, producing 200 to 400 fruits per year the size of a large grapefruit or small watermelon. Breadfruit contains all nine essential amino acids and is a good source of fibre, protein and several minerals and vitamins. In the centuries since their introduction, breadfruit trees were abundant across Jamaica, and the fruit has been a staple of the country's cuisine. In recent years, as communities have sought out more sustainable, local and healthy food sources – especially ones that can withstand extreme weather (a breadfruit tree that's damaged in a hurricane can regrow itself) – breadfruit has experienced renewed interest as a nutritious and versatile option, providing both health and economic benefits. Typically eaten as a side dish and used like a vegetable, breadfruit is most often roasted, peeled and sliced. Its taste is subtly sweet, with a chewy bread-like quality (hence its name). Its soft and starchy texture is akin to a root vegetable like potato or cassava. Like those foods, it takes on the flavour of the main course with which it is served. Caroline de Lisser is a Montego Bay-based breadfruit aficionado currently working on a cookbook of breadfruit recipes. She explained, "All Jamaicans love breadfruit, and there's practically a tree in every yard. To me, it tastes like a very soft roasted chestnut crossed with good bread." Cynthia ("everyone calls me just Cynthia"), opened her eponymous restaurant on Winnifred Beach in Portland Parish 26 years ago and has been serving breadfruit since day one. "Breadfruit is like rice or potato, and it can be roasted, boiled or fried," she explained. "We can even make cake and drinks from it." Cynthia has noticed an increase in the fruit's popularity in recent years. "It can be eaten with any meat and without meat," she explained. In her open-air kitchen by the beach, Cynthia roasts whole breadfruit over an open flame for about 20 minutes, until a knife slides easily through the skin. After removing it from the flame, she peels off the skin with a large knife, carves out the pit, and cuts the remaining flesh into slices. A warm, freshly roasted breadfruit slice is a tasty finger food treat. "My favourite way is to roast it and have it natural [without accompaniment]. It's very tasty, sweet, finger-licking."